Gemtex : from birth to the present day
The GEMTEX research unit was established in November 1992 with the aim of conducting research leading to tangible and intangible innovations in the textile industry, drawing on the latest scientific and technological knowledge.
Over the last 30 years, GEMTEX has gradually expanded, growing from a small group of five lecturers and researchers into a medium-sized research unit (32 lecturers and researchers and 37 PhD students, as of January 2026).
Since 1994, the unit has also welcomed lecturers and PhD students from JUNIA, the engineering school of the Catholic University of Lille. Since 2023, within the framework of the EPE, its primary supervisory body has been the University of Lille, and its associated supervisory body is ENSAIT. The École Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles (ENSAIT) is the largest centre in Europe for initial training at Master’s level (engineering degree) in the specialism of fibrous materials.
A MULTIDISCIPLINARY LABORATORY
The GEMTEX Laboratory contributes to the development of interdisciplinary research projects aimed not only at driving innovation in the textile, clothing and retail sectors through new sustainable and connected materials and digital tools, but also at designing innovative, high-value-added textile materials and products that help restore industrial sovereignty and contribute to the reindustrialisation of France across a wide range of application areas (clothing, transport, cosmetics, health, safety, sport, aeronautics, robotics, etc.).
All activities are organised around three research areas, encompassing all the unit’s research projects and technology platforms, namely: (i) modelling, simulation and optimisation of systems and value chains in the textile sector, (ii) the physics of textile materials, structures and systems, and (iii) formulations, structures and processes for the functionalisation of textiles..
SOME KEY FIGURES
Two graduate schools
The Textile Engineering and Materials Unit (GEMTEX) is a ULR research group (No. 2461) based at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles (ENSAIT) in Roubaix. The Gemtex is primarily overseen by the University of Lille and ENSAIT.
NEWS
Thesis defense
05/03/26
Inès PITA MIGUELEZ defends her doctoral thesis entitled « Experimental analysis and numerical models of the mechanical behaviour of knitted fabrics for Medical Compression Stockings (MCS) ».
She is accompanied by her thesis supervisors Damien SOULAT and Xavier LEGRAND..
Thesis proposal
03/03/26
MODÉLISATION ET SIMULATION DE STRATÉGIES D’ÉCONOMIE CIRCULAIRE POUR LE SECTEUR TEXTILE-HABILLEMENT
Le doctorant de l’ENSAIT se concentrera sur le développement et l’intégration d’éléments de connecteurs flexibles dans des substrats textiles. La fiabilité des systèmes de connecteurs complets sera évaluée conformément à la norme IPC 8981 relative à la qualité et à la fiabilité des e-textiles.
Plus d’information ici
Thesis proposal
27/02/26
ÉTUDE SUR LA FIABILITÉ ET LE CONFORT DES NOUVEAUX CONNECTEURS USB TEXTILES (TUSB)
Le doctorant de l’ENSAIT se concentrera sur le développement et l’intégration d’éléments de connecteurs flexibles dans des substrats textiles. La fiabilité des systèmes de connecteurs complets sera évaluée conformément à la norme IPC 8981 relative à la qualité et à la fiabilité des e-textiles.
Plus d’information ici
Thesis proposal
27/02/26
ÉCO-CONCEPTION, ANALYSE DU CYCLE DE VIE ET CIRCULARITÉ DES NOUVEAUX CONNECTEURS USB TEXTILES (T-USB)
Le/la doctorant(e) devra contribuer au développement des structures e-textiles compatibles connecteur USB flexibles et fiables, Identifier un modèle d’ACV approprié et devra également accomplir des essais de recyclage/réutilisation et d’ évaluation
Plus d’information ici
2 new ATER positions
26/02/26
Two full-time positions are available as temporary teaching and research assistants for the 2026-2027 academic year (one-year contract).
- Section 61
- Section 62
Thesis proposal
12/02/26
The main objective of the thesis project is to develop a reliable model of clothing lifespan based on the concept of digital shadowing applied to jeans and T-shirts. The model to be developed aims to establish essential links between actual usage phases, identified by instrumentation, and material wear observed in the laboratory. Link to the offer