This project focuses on these different possible end-of-life loops, on the eco-design of textiles and on the analysis of discarded textiles, as well as the design of century-old textile objects, whose lifespan would exceed two generations. Textile objects will be studied on 3 scales: the molecular scale, that of the polymers that make up fibres, the scale of textile fabrics, and the scale of articles, particularly clothing.
At the molecular scale, during the macromolecular synthesis or polymer formulation stage, the incorporation of certain relevant constituent elements into the polymer backbone or of certain additives into the polymer may be a way of providing performance but also the ability to be repaired, sorted, reused or recycled. A « material by design » approach will make it possible to synthesise eco-designed macromolecules, i.e. made up of dynamic bonds that can form or break under the effect of stimuli (temperature, light, pH) using green chemical reagents, bio-based monomers and a clean process.
On a macro level, the aim is to design textiles whose surface states evolve over time in order to consolidate the affective charges users place on their objects and extend their useful life. The research focuses on the evolution of the properties and qualities of materials and natural dyes over the course of time.
The author of this summary is the project coordinator
Contact at Ensait / Gemtex : Pr. Anne PERWUELZ
Partners : INSA Lyon (coordinator), Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles Roubaix, Université de Lille, Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs